Don't lose out by identifying the age of your Levi's denim jacket! How to distinguish, value, and appraise the four major vintage models

Levi's denim jackets (D-Jean jackets) are more than just workwear; they are "archive products" whose value is determined by details that change with each era .
In particular, the appraisal and market price for the four major models, 506XX , 507XX, 557XX, and 70505, can vary greatly depending on whether you can understand the differences in the red tab (big E/small e), patch, engraving on the back of the button, and stitching .

"Is your outfit a real vintage? How old is it?"
To help clear up this confusion, we have organized the information in a way that even beginners to intermediate watch owners can put into practice right away , in the following order: basics of determining the age → key points of the four major models → identifying reproductions (LVC) → market prices and appraisals → care methods → frequently asked questions .

The reason why Levi's is loved and the appeal of "vintage"

Levi's originated as workwear in the late 19th century, and has since evolved from durable clothing for miners and laborers into an icon symbolized by film, rock, and counterculture.
The denim jacket has gone through the rebellious spirit of the 1950s, the diversity of the 1960s and 1970s, and the return to street style since the 1990s, becoming a staple that transcends generations .

The charm of vintage items is that even if they have the same product number, the details vary depending on the era .
Thread, stitching, patterns, tabs, patches - these small differences lead to **story value** and **market value**.

Basics of determining the age: First look here and you won't go wrong

1) Red tab (LEVI'S "E")

• Big E (capital E) : Approximately **~1971**. An important sign of vintage value.

• Small e (lowercase e) : Since the 1970s . There is a tendency for prices to vary even for the same model.

2) Patch (leather/paper, markings, deterioration)

• Older items had leather patches , but later paper patches became mainstream. The format and printing of the markings also provide clues to their age.

• Readability is important for appraisal. Be careful not to peel off the mark by washing it too hard.

3) Stamp on the back of the button (factory number and period clues)

• The factory and period can be guessed using two-digit numbers or symbols . While the model alone cannot be conclusive , accuracy can be improved by combining it with other factors .

4) Guaranteed tag (e.g., "CARE INSTRUCTIONS" or "Every Garment Guaranteed")

• Only existed in certain eras . If they survive, they are rare and have documentary value .

5) Specification differences between early and late models

• Pocket shape, pleats, cinch back, stitching , etc.

• Even if the product number is the same, the difference in specifications equals the difference in price . Early models tend to be more expensive.

Understanding how to distinguish between the four major models using tables and key points

First, a bird's-eye view: 4-model quick reference chart (practical version)

*The age range is a guideline. Individual differences and fluctuations during the transition period should always be considered, and a comprehensive judgment based on multiple factors is the golden rule.

How to identify and value 506XX (First)

Features to keep in mind

• 1 chest pocket / front pleats / back cinch back (buckle back)

• Difference between early model: buckle with needle / late model: slide without needle

• Remaining leather patches , **wartime simplified (simplified stitching, rivets, buttons, etc.)** are even rarer

Check here to determine

• Presence and readability of leather patch

• Buckle shape (hand/slide)

• Red tab (one side/Big E)

• Traces of simplified stitching (war period)

Value Trend

• First editions are at the top end of the market . Wartime specs, leather patches and tabs in good condition, and good size can fetch anywhere from several hundred thousand yen to over a million yen .

• The originality (including how it was repaired) is directly related to the appraisal.

How to Identify the 507XX (Second) and Its Value

Features to keep in mind

• 2 chest pockets / Pleats / Slightly wider

• Early period: Leather patch / Late period: Transition to paper patch

• The remaining single-sided tab (Big E) is a strong valuation factor.

Check here to determine

• Change in patch material (leather → paper)

• Button back engraving (combined judgment)

• Tab specification (single-sided/Big E)

• Time differences in sewing thread color, bar shape , etc.

Value Trend

• The price is the second highest after the first . Leather patches from the early period in good condition are a premium item.

• In recent years, there has been a trend towards **good size (especially larger)** being even more highly rated.

557XX (Third) → How to distinguish 557 and its value

Features to keep in mind

• No pleats / Modern pattern / V-stitch (chest pocket seam, etc.)

• Changes in patch notation : 557XX → 557 .

• Short production period (XX period around 1967) = Good condition is rare

Check here to determine

• Notation on paper patch ("557XX" or "557")

• Red Tab (Big E)

• V-stitch position and sewing nuances

Value Trend

• It is popular as the prototype of the modern denim jacket.

• 557XX notation x Big E x good condition indicates stable strength. **557 (Big E)** is also a good target.

How to identify 70505 and its value

Features to keep in mind

• The length is slightly longer ( more modern than the 557)

• The Type 3 series became more refined and became the mainstay from the 1970s onwards .

• Until around 1971, the basic model was the Big E, and thereafter the Small E.

Check here to determine

• Red tab (Big E or Small E)

• Inscriptions and remains of paper patches

• Narrow down the period by the engraving on the back of the button

• Accumulation of differences in sewing specifications (before and after)

Value Trend

• Although it has a large distribution volume, it is highly rated during the Big E period .

• The range varies greatly depending on the size, remaining color, and quality of damage .

• A winning model that is easy to collect for beginners to intermediate players.

How to distinguish between reproductions (LVC) and genuine vintage items

The appeal of LVC (LEVI'S VINTAGE CLOTHING) is its faithful reproductions. Look for modern quality tags, country of origin (JP/US/EU, etc.), and size ranges .
"Unnatural newness" (paper patch in too good condition/color fading in a modern way) is also a factor in judging.

Checkpoint (overall judgment)

• Red tab : Nuances of font and stitching position

• Quality labeling : Presence or absence of modern labels

• Patch : Paper aging/natural leather aging

• Button back : Engraving format matching

• Sewing : Chain stitch, chain stitch, stitch width "atmosphere"

Conclusion : Don't make a decision based on a single factor . It's safer to judge based on the match of multiple factors .

Practices to avoid losses in market prices and appraisals

Rough market price (guideline)

• 506XX : From several hundred thousand to over 1 million yen (wartime spec, good leather patch, good size, upward fluctuation)

• 507XX : Over 100,000 to hundreds of thousands of yen (early model leather patch x good condition)

• 557XX/557 (Big E) : Over several tens of thousands of yen to over a hundred thousand yen (XX notation and condition may increase)

• 70505 (Big E) : From several tens of thousands of yen (price varies widely depending on size, remaining color, and damage)

*It fluctuates with the market, exchange rates, and trends. Understand the latest market trends and negotiate appraisals by gathering details .

Conditions for selling at a high price (appraisal points)

• The red tab, patch, and back engraving on the button are legible.

• Original stitching and parts retained

• The size is great (modern and easy to wear = higher rating)

• The damage has a nice "flavor" (not fatal, repairs are natural)

Common mistakes

• Washing and drying the item vigorously before appraisal → Peeling of patches/shrinkage/color fading/changes will result in deduction of points.

• Excessive repairs : Repairs that destroy the atmosphere of the time will be negatively evaluated.

Washing and care to preserve vintage items

The basic approach is to wash clothes as frequently as possible and dry them in the shade .
Leather patches are sensitive to water , so be careful not to get them wet even when washing them by hand .

Practical steps

1. Everyday : Brush off dust and dry in the shade to refresh

2. Partial stains : Dilute neutral detergent and wash the spot

3. Full wash (only if necessary) : Gently press and wash with lukewarm water and mild detergent → Rinse briefly → Lightly remove water with a towel

4. Drying : Avoid direct sunlight / Dry in the shade . Adjust the shape and lay flat to dry.

5. Storage : Prioritize moisture control . Avoid overcrowding, keep well ventilated. Avoid direct contact with insect repellent.

point

• Heat (dryers and hot irons) is strictly prohibited

• Patches, tabs, and printing are "documents." Handle them with care.

A useful checklist for determining age

Red Tab

• Big E? (approximately 1971)

• Possibility of single-sided tabs ?

patch

• Leather or paper /printing legible?

• What are the model designations such as 557XX/557/70505 ?

Button back engraving

• Presence or absence of numbers/symbols (auxiliary information to narrow down the period)

Specification difference

• Pleats (506/507 only)

• Cinch back presence/shape (506)

• V stitch (557)

• Length (557 vs 70505)

General

• Are you leaning towards the early or late stages?

• Possibility of reprint (quality label, "too new" feeling)

• Price range estimated based on actual size, condition, remaining color

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

Q1. I can't read the product number. How can I tell the difference?
A. A combination of red tab, patch material and printing, engraving on the back of the button, and specifications (pleats, cinch, V-stitch) .
The context of the early/late period and the actual dimensions are also taken into account, and the overall date is estimated .

Q2. What is the most valuable?
A. Generally, the 506XX (first) . Wartime specifications, leather patches, and good condition are at the top of the range.
The next most popular is 507XX , followed by 557XX/557 (Big E) and **70505 (Big E)**.

Q3. Is it worth buying even a reissue (LVC)?
A. It's great value for everyday use, has a wide range of sizes , and is reasonably priced .
In terms of investment value, originals are better than reproductions , but if you're looking for "fun to wear" and durability, LVC is the best solution .

Q4. Will washing or repairing it decrease its value?
A. There is a possibility of the leather coming off . In particular, peeling leather patches, severe discoloration, and unnatural repairs will result in a deduction of points.
However, natural and period-appropriate repairs may be permitted. It is best to consult an appraisal before proceeding .

Summary | "The more you know, the more you can protect and sell"

• The four major models (506XX, 507XX, 557XX, and 70505) can be distinguished by differences in the tabs, patches, backs of the buttons, and specifications .

• The Big E (approximately up to 1971 years old) is an important sign of value . Understanding early/late periods will lead to greater accuracy .

• **Reproductions (LVC) are identified by the quality label and "newness."** Comprehensive checks prevent misidentification.

• The appraisal is directly related to originality, document quality (tabs/patches), size, and remaining color . Please wash carefully .

• The joy of vintage items is preserving their value through care and storage .

Today's Action

1. Check the jacket you have in the following order: tabs → patches → back of buttons → specifications .

2. Tentatively decide on the early/late periods and roughly grasp the market range .

3. Avoid washing before listing/appraising , and instead dry in the shade and brush lightly to condition.

Once you have an eye for it, your outfit will begin to speak louder.
And it is that story that is of value .